Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Cross-Training with a “Forbidden” Trek.

In the midst of training for my first half-marathon, I decided to do a bit of cross-training so, from Vancouver where I was checking out the local spas, I headed up to Coastal Trek Resort on Vancouver Island for a few days of hiking.

I really appreciate that owners Andrea and Shayne Stuchbery bent the rules a bit to allow me to stay for just these “few days” because the minimum stay is typically seven-days. The whole focus of this intimate, family-run property is health and fitness and the week-long program revolves around daily hikes. There are more than 100 different options in the immediate area and each daily hike is selected by guide Mike Black based on guests interest and fitness level.

After the first day of what might be called a “starter hike,” I was ready for the big one – a 27 km (16.2 miles) signature hike across Forbidden Plateau. Shayne explained it to all six guests as we sat around the massive dining room table enjoying a healthy breakfast. As well as being co-owner, Shayne also guides hikes and he says the 27 km, the retreat’s flagship hike is his personal favourite. Turns out, I’m the only one up for the challenge. So while Mike takes the rest of the group on another day-long hike, Shayne and I will traverse the Forbidden Plateau.

While the name – Forbidden Plateau – sounds more than a bit foreboding, Shayne assures me that it is nothing of the sort. In fact, he said, I always do it in my bare feet. How difficult can a hike be if this man can do it barefooted?

This will be no outing to smell the wild flowers, enjoy the view or snap photos – this is a hike for fitness sake and the goal is to complete it in the record time of six hours, which Shayne tells me he did with a previous thirty-something male guest.

The beginning of our trail, which is on Washington Mountain in
Strathcona Provincial Park
(located in the centre of Vancouver Island and designated the oldest park in British Columbia) includes a touristy boardwalk, followed by a groomed forest trail, soft on the feet (good for my barefooted guide) and dappled with sunlight. At Murray Meadows, about 8 km into the hike, Shayne announces “now we’re at the hard part.” The next three km, a collection of roots, muddy patches and water hazards, really slows the pace. Then comes the warning, “the most difficult part is still to come.”

At noon, about the 11km mark we stop for lunch on a rocky spot between two lakes. We take just enough time to rest our feet and enjoy part of the picnic lunch – which includes a chicken wrap and steamed edamame (soy beans) - prepared by the chef at Coastal Trek.

Not long after lunch we hit one of the longest “difficult parts” - a steep and constant incline up the saddle between two mountains that takes us up about 1,000 feet.

While there were many gentle parts – forest and meadows - the route was more obstacle course than hiking trail and many parts were not groomed. We encountered sections strewn with huge fallen limbs, rocks that made walking difficult, slippery muddy patches, two significant inclines and lots of mosquitos. We passed through beautiful old-growth forests and peaceful lake-side meadows. The only sounds, other than those made by our own voices, were those of birds, squirrels the occasional rushing waters or trickling streams.

The highlight for me was actually one of the most difficult sections - a treacherous pebble covered terrain of an old ski hill closed down in the 90s. It was like walking on marbles and we really slowed the pace. It was here I took my one and only tumble of the day. Ouch. Turns out it afforded the day’s most scenic view. We were looking down on Comax Village, Georgia Strait and the Coastal Mountains beyond.

It took close to seven hours to complete Forbidden Plateau Traverse and along the way we met only one other person – a solo trekker looking to set up camp for the night.

Cold drinks, snacks and iced hand towels were waiting for us back at the resort. We didn’t make the six-hour finish time but still I feel a great sense of accomplishment. Especially when I learn that only 2 per cent of guests set out to complete this great hike. Along with Mount Kenya, Havasu Canyon and Grosmorn Mountain, I see it as another notch in my hiking belt. And, yes, except for the pebble-covered ski slope, Shayne did it all in his bare feet.

Anne Dimon is the editor of Travel to Wellness

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